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| A View from the top of Fort Zeelandia; isn't it pretty as fuck? |
Tainan exists in the middle of the fast pace Technological life of Taipei and the extremely mellow and relaxed life of the south. It is a place of contrast, a place that perfectly represents what I think defines Taiwan: 'a sweet spot between tradition and innovation'.
Tainan is the oldest city in Taiwan, it was first founded by the Dutch, then occupied by the Portuguese and Chinese. It has lived plenty of rises and falls. Originally designed to be a port, the Anping area now holds a collection of residential areas and office buildings surrounding some very old areas.
In these old areas we can find two very interesting buildings that have lived through the ages. I don't know much about Architecture but I will give it a try to write about these places.
The Golden fort (or Eternal Golden Castle)
Built in 1874 to serve as a defensive castle or fort against Japanese invasions. For 20 years remained inactive until the Japanese invasion of 1895, during which the Taiwanese fought the Japanese vessels from here. It has a very interesting octagonal shape with very efficient placement of the cannons at the front section of the fort, facing the ocean. The cannons were able to be reloaded rather quickly which gave the fort it's tactical edge. It also houses a rather large central square area that could be used for training purposes. After 1904, during the Russo-Japanese war, all the cannons were sold to support the war thus the fort lost all its military edge, resulting in a semi-abandonment state.
A few years ago, the place received a facelift as a tourist attraction, and I have to say: Good Job Taiwan! The place looks fantastic, it has a very nice series of banners depicting the history of the place, the gardens and surroundings are extremely well kept. And it offers an exceptional view. If you are around the Anping area do not hesitate on coming here; it is a well spent hour.
The Eternal Golden Castle Guangzhou Road, Anping District, Taiwan Price: 50 NTD (25 NTD discount)
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| A view of the entry way into the Eternal Golden Castle |
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| Fake cannons now located in strategic locations at the Eternal Golden Castle |
The Old Fort (Fort Zeelandia)
Very close, in the same area we will find the Old fort, or Fort Zeelandia as named by the Dutch. This is a much older , much bigger and, in my opinion much more interesting structure.
Built between 1624 and 1634 by the then Rulers of the area; the Dutch, fort Zeelandia has seen the rise and fall of Tainan many times, it has suffered additions, demolitions, and renewables throughout the centuries. This fort is presumably the first big structure erected in the Island, and the Dutch picked this exact location for its ease of access to the ocean and strategic defensive value in case an invasion; which in theory sound pretty good except for the lack of fresh water supply that had to be carried in from the mainland. And this is how the actual settlement started, this was the typical European fort of the 17th century. Inside the fort was the military and administration center, church, garrisons, and jailhouse; outside was the downtown. Between the fort and downtown, there were market, slaughterhouse, gallows, execution ground and city weighing station.
Today only the main fort remains as it was back in the day. In the same way as the Golden Castle it was renewed and repurposed. It is a pretty awesome place to wander around and learn a bit of the history of Tainan. As well as having amazing gardens and an exceptional view of the Anping Downtown, it also has a couple of small museums.
My favorite part of the place is the observation deck built in the 1940's. I mean, asthetically speaking it is fucking ugly and kind of breaks down the whole harmony the place has, but it is the only place in Tainan, where anybody can go up and have an advantage point over the city, a great view indeed. If you have a chance you should come around here for a stroll.
Fort Zeelandia
國勝路82號 Anping Old Fort 708, Taiwán
Price: 50 NTD (25 NTD discount)
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| The stairs into Fort Zeelandia; there was a school trip around that day, funny kids |
